Looking back, every vinicultural year is a special year and every year you hear the sentence”…I have never experienced that before…” In this sense, 2017 will also be one of the special years for the VDP Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt winery in which Mother Nature has once again proven that it sets the decisive parameters.
Not only climatic extremes, such as frost, heat and drought, but also the certainty that rain will come at some point, constantly encourage the winegrower to keep a cool head and take moderate paths in accordance with the circumstances.
Warm spring with high risk of frost
The start of the year was characterised by a very warm spring, which favoured the early budding of the vines. The risk of frost was very high and the fears that the already fanned buds would be “overrun by the icemen” came true. Three cold nights in April strongly added to wine and agriculture throughout Europe. However, a period of good weather followed after these cold days, which made the secondary eyes grow quickly. This could partially minimize the loss caused by the frost. Due to moderate temperatures and very low rainfall in June, the conditions for flowering were almost perfect.
However, the hot days of spring did not only bring advantages: especially the young vineyards had to struggle with great drought stress. The water balance of the soils was already negative due to the low precipitation winter. Old vines with developed water resources could again benefit from the extended cycle. The wine year 2017 passed very quickly and the maturity could be recorded on average two weeks earlier than the average of the past years. However, the rainy months of July and August led to early and immature botrytis.
So far the earliest harvest in the history of the winery
The large reading team of 52 men and women was already ready on 21.9.2017 to start the reading. The 2017 harvest is thus the earliest wine harvest in the history of the winery to date. Special attention was paid to the meticulous selection of Trockenbeeren- and Beerenauslese and the separation of healthy grapes and those with botrytis, as well as unripe and ripe grapes.
This effort brought outstanding results! The Mosel leader was the Piesporter Goldtröpfchen with 192°Oe. During the relatively short harvest, the initially high acids were reduced from 13g/l to 9-10g/l. The aroma also changed from day to day: away from the vegetative components to impressively ripe fruit and fullness.
The fermenting must and the first wines taste incredibly fresh and fruity. They delight with a lot of power in the finish. The large plants, which come from plants with a small pruning, already convince with much terroir, pressure and reverberation.
100% Terroir & Diligence
Conclusion: It was a year of extremes with different conditions and effects in our three cultivation valleys Mosel, Saar and Ruwer.
However, the result stands to 100% for the terroir, the conditions and the diligence. Enjoy another very exciting and characterful vintage!